CAPI Summit – CIMA CAPI

The slab of San Giovanni

The bivouac Arcioni is 858 meters high among the forests, under the south face called “ Rocca”, which dominates it. It is dedicated to the lieutenant Francesco Arcioni who fell from the “Sperone” on 13rd April 1916. It has been built from the group SAT of Biacesa in 1985 and it has a room which is always open with fire, benches and tables and the kitchen. On Sunday it is always managed. Another room offers 6 beds (plus others two on mattress); for the key please apply to Mr. Renato Gotti (tel. +39 0464 508474).
Before the bivouac you will find the small church of San Giovanni Battista, built with granite by the Association Pro San Giovanni, who manages the bivouac. Around the bivouac there are a lot of ruins of the First World War; in fact a big trench run along the forest which divides in two parts the south face called “Rocca” and it was the most advanced Italian location against the Austrian locations of the Rocca.
Under the bivouac there is a big slab made of good grey rock, about 150 meters high. During the war it has been probably climbed in some points by the soldiers. Today an equipped route and some climbing routes meander on it.

From Biacesa to the bivouac
Level: T
Climbing time: 1.15 hours
Starting from Biacesa (418 meters high) you reach the junction with the houses Caregna where you have to take the left going through large bends along a marked path. By the next junction (Dos de le Frate), about 700 meters high, leave the marked path on the left to Bochet dei Concoli. Go on leaving the trail to Bocca Sperone on the left and continue along a trail which reaches the small church of San Giovanni and the bivouac.

THE EQUIPPED TRAIL
Level: EEA
Climbing time: 1.15 hours
This is a funny equipped trail with metallic cables which runs some vertical rocks of the south-west face of the woody ledge on which stands the bivouac San Giovanni. The same face has been climbed by Giuliano Emanuelli in 1985, a route on slabs, with some stretches together with the actual equipped route and with levels II, III and IV. The itinerary, which is marked with red points, follows an old military trail which is called “Sentiero delle Lastre”.
Starting from Biacesa (418 meters high) follow the itinerary 2.5.1 up to the left bend (about 680 meters high). Take a small trail that brings you to the base of the grey faces. Rise a little bit on the right and on the left among the rocks (cables) reaching a niche with the route’s book. Pass on the right a vertical rock of 2 meters and some small rocks (cables). Where the trail seems to finish against a face, it goes on the left up to a junction. Leave on your right a trail which brings you to some war-location and, through the forest you reach the itinerary 2.5.1. again, not so far away from the church.

Way Zanotti-Calzà
First climbers: Rino Zanotti and Paolo Calzà (Trota) in 1994
Level: III, IV, V+
The route is good equipped with bolts. The attack point is situated along the previous equipped trail, by a niche, just reached the grey face. It climbs directly with three pitches and comes out always on the same trail after the equipped stretch.

SAN GIOVANNI ROCK SPUR
First climbers: Eugenio Cipriani and Martina Speri
Length: about 200 meters
Level: from II up to V+
Material left: 6 fix of 8 mm, 1 sling and 1 aid peg; 2 fix and 2 slings by the belays
Material needed: slings, a rope of 60 meters is enough
It is a funny climbing with explorative features, discontinuous on a level point of view, but with some technical small walls. Good rock on the difficulties, except some meters which have to be cleaned. The way runs along the base of the south rock spur of the counterfort on which the church of San Giovanni stands; it comes out on the equipped way of the itinerary 2.5.2, at the beginning of the second stretch of fixed ropes.
The way can be climbed throughout the year. From Biacesa follow the itinerary 2.5.1 up to the junction for the equipped way. Continue for other five minutes going on a dip beyond which you can see on the left a small wall. On the left of the small wall you can see a trail which follows you, after 15 meters, at the attack point of the route which is marked by a slab with bolts and an inscription at the base (30 minutes).
After the attack ramp pass a difficult small wall (IV+, 1 fix) and the following face which is more articulate (IV+, 1 fix) beyond which you can belay by a fix (S1, 20 meters, from IV V+). Go on vertically now on articulate and easy rocks (II, pay attention to some stones which are not so stable), then pass a small crack wall (IV) beyond which you go on through a forest belaying then on a white sling by a smooth slab after a small wall. (S2, 50 meters, from II up to IV+).
Pass the slab (fix, V-) and then climb again vertically for ten meters up to a belay on a tunnel to be equipped by the trail (S3, 20 meters, V-, then easy). Traverse on the left along the trail for ten meters up to a good slab with visible fix (S4, 10 meters, easy). Climb the slab (IV+/V-) with a very beautiful climbing (2 bolts and 1 piton) reaching a grassy terrace under the following vertical rock under which you can belay thanks to a very high bolt (S5, 30 meters). Traverse on the left for 15 meters and then climb directly to a fix followed by a sling passing then a difficult wall (V+) beyond which, through vertical rocks, you reach a belay with a red rope (S6, 30 meters, from III up to V+). Go on vertically through easy rocks (II) and then through forest up to the equipped path (S7, 20 meters).
Descent through the equipped path or along a comfortable trail marked with number 460.

FUN & PLEASURE
Under construction…

From "Il garda Verticale" - Camerini Stenghel