Gaino

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arrampicata vista lago

CASTELLO DI GAINO mountain – Toscolano Maderno (Bs)

ACCESS: From Toscolano Maderno you reach Gaino village; after the village you take the route which goes to Camerate, but you go on the right , direction riding school “Castello”, you pass it, and then you can park your car. Go on by walk on a steep and cemented climb and before the barrier you have to take the trail on the left (there is the signboard) that has to be followed for 15 minutes, crossing a scree, up to the base of the cliff. INFOs: South cliff: It is composed of a range of rocks and faces, very good equipped with ring bolts. At the base you will find a board with the routes’ draft. From the left to the right

Da sinistra a destra

	Nome	Primo tiro	Secondo tiro	note
1	Giù le mani dagli spit	14 m , 7c
2	Girgirella	17 m ; 7c
3	Pane	17 m ; 6c+
4	...e cioccolata	20 m ; 6c
5	Penne di Pino	20 m ; 6c
6	Violentemente	20 m ; 7a+
7	La Serpe	20 m , 6a+	25 m , 5c	Sosta in comune con LA FRECCIA
8	La Freccia sx	20 m , 5c	25 m , 5c	2° tiro in comune con LA SERPE
8a	La freccia dx	20 m , 5c		Breve variante dell’attacco
9	Once Upon Time	20 m , 7c
10	Bes Gaulì	20 m , 6a	25 m , 6a
11	Sederini parlanti	25 m , 6a+		Intuitivo tetto atletico
12	Indiedro tutta	23 m , 5c	25 m , 5c	nel primo tiro si può obbliquare a sx tagliando facilmente le vie fino a raggiungere la sosta di Once upon a time
13	PDS	20 m , 6c	25 m , 6a
14	CCD	20 m , 5c	25 m , 6a
15	Blu Spit	20 m , 6b+	25 m , 6b
16	Alternanza	20 m , 7b
17	Oro nero	20 m , 6c	25 m , 6c
18	Little Giò	15 m , 5c	15 m , 6a
19	Mamma Mary	28 m 5 c
20	Il Nido	15 m , 7a

Settore Centrale

	Nome	Primo tiro	Note
1	Kamelot	20 m , 5c	Un po' abbandonata, resta sulla destra appena iniziata la discesa
2	Senza nome (via del pilastrino?)	?? m , 5a	Semplice via per principianti a gradoni
3	Sentiero alpinistico LA CRESTA		v. Cresta Sud-Ovest
4	La fessura	6a	Singolo passaggio in fessura

via del pilastrino

Settore B (falesia ovest)

Dopo aver oltrepassato il settore centrale, si scende verso ovest per circa 100 metri, seguendo le corde fisse.

	Nome	Primo tiro	Note
1	Spigulì	15 m , 6b
2	La nato	20 m, 6a	aerea, piacevole
3	Fabius	20 m, 6a+
4	Panza nera	30 m, 6a	buono sviluppo
5	Vai col friend	30 m, 5c
6	Falco azzurro	30 m, 6a+	Via un po' invasa dalla vegetazione
7	Senza nome	??, ??
8	via Rikitikitakki	150mt V+	??

To the south west crest

First climbers: Francesco (Nino) Coppellotti, Arrigo Giannantoni and Gerolamo Bettoni probably in 1913

Level: II and III and 1U a sequence of V (possible to bypass)

Material: 12 pitons still there, belays included

Climbing time: 3 hours

This is a common climb on good rock that the climbers are used to consider as ended on the secondary summit (848 meters) where you can reach the starting point following a gully which descents on the right. From the base you climb along some cracks (III) on the left of a slab and you continue on an easier terrain jumping up to the “trincea” (trench). You pass an overhang-step (V) with a big tree; you go on along the crest passing two difficult jumps, coming out of the secondary summit (848 meters). Continue up to the dip, climb a wall and, along the crest, you reach the summit (3 hours).

Descent: from the dip up to the secondary summit (848 meters) you descent through small rocks.

Dei comunisti route

First climbers: Renato Cobelli and others in 1976

Level: IV and V

The name was given by Gianpiero Tabarelli, because “the traverse goes to the left”. The first pitch up to the ledge is together with Licia route. Reached the ledge, you pass on the right for 20 meters (this point is easy to reach coming from the end of Devil Crack route). You climb on the left with a long traverse of about 30 meters (IV, V), setting up a belay on tunnels, pitons and small spikes and coming out on the crest just below the secondary summit (848 meters).

FUN & PLEASURE

Coming from Toscolano, just before Gaino, there is a new restaurant on the right, near a meadow.

l'ATTACCO DI KAMELOT

sono piccolo, ma penso in grande - [foto di Paolo Tobanelli]

Paolo Tobanelli su LA NATO