By Salò or Gardone Riviera you reach the village San Michele. By the restaurant Colomber you can go on the right and after a long dirt  road you reach the parking (Pirello area). Continue by walk following the direction Giorgio Pirlo allo Spino hut where you can follow then the trail to Buco del Tedesco. Before reaching it, on your right, you will find the starts of the route.

Or, always by Colomber restaurant, you go on the left following a dirt road and after parking the car, at the end of the road, you take the trail no. 9bis which enters, on the left, in a small valley on the secrecy of the stream; it is quite hard, but you reach the wall.

The environment of the Garda inland is very beautiful even if the wall is a little bit abandoned. The routes don’t have a great development, but the rock is really special, an eroded limestone. Long studs.

Also lovers of single pitches can enjoy themselves due to the proximity of the ski-bindings of the several routes.

MARMERE mountain

By Pirlo allo Spino hut (1160 meters) you take an easy trail which, with some ups and down travels at demi-coast to the south west of Spino Mount (Monte Spino), exceeds the gully that comes down from Buco del Gatto and continues through the Passo del buco del Tedesco.LA BEFANA ROUTE

First climbers: Giuseppe and Giuliano Leonardi on 6^th January 1995.

Length : 160 meters to the point where you get on “Gnaccarini-Bosio” route; then other 100 meters on this route.

Level: VI+

The start is near a clear slab on the right of “Gnaccarini-Bosio” route. You climb with four rope-pitches of 40 meters on bored slag (bolt and chain at the belays). At the fifth pitch, where there is the route book, you reach the “Gnaccarini-Bosio” route, that you have then to follow up to the summit.

GIGIAT ROUTE

First climbers: Alberto Damioli solo on 28^th December 1996.

Length : clip up of 35 meters.

Level: V+ V

The route doesn’t reach the summit and this is a clip up of 35 meters. Return in rappel.

YETI ROUTE

First climbers: Alberto Damioli solo on 15^th December 1996

Length : 60 meters

Level: from III up to VI

Fully protected to bolt, the route, to be overcome in friction climbing, doesn’t reach the summit; Return in rappel.

Just above the trail which comes from Pirlo hut you clip to a slab where there is the inscription with the name of the route and after an easy stretch (III) you go in oblique on the left and then you continue directly (S11, 25 meters, VI). Cross on the left for few meters and then go in oblique always on the left up to a grassy ledge (S2, V+).

ORECCHIE D’ORSO ROUTE

First climbers: Alberto Tonioli and Edoardo Rizza in April 1999

Length : 150 meters

Level: VI/A1

The first climbers found, along the first meters of the first pitch, a pair of bolts of a probable previous attempt.

Starting from Pirlo allo Spino hut (1160 meters), you walk for 40 minutes on the route (itinerary 3.18.1) reaching the base of the face where there is written the name of the route. You take a smooth slab in order to move yourselves on the right following a deep groove (S1, 45 meters, V-/IV, 3 bolt). You climb the second slab and then you bend on the left with good holes for the fingers to a small dihedral toward a wall on the right (S2, 35 meters, V/IV, 5 bolt, 1 piton). You go in oblique then on the left through a small crack and then on a slab with poor holds (S3, 30 meters, VI/A1, 6 bolt, an used cliff from the first climbers). You follow a crack and then you go straightly to a flake that you have to re-climb leaving the spur on the left (S4, 35 meters, VI/A1, 6 bolt and 1 piton). Descent: you can go on easy rocks up to the ridge summit or down in rappel along the route.

GALAXIA ROUTE

First climbers: Alberto Tonioli, Roberto Amadori and Edoardo Rizzi in April 1999

Length: 140 meters

Material: 9 double connectors; 2 ropes 50 meters

Level: from IV+ up to VI+

The route you enter, after the fourth pitch , on the “Gnaccarini-Bosio” route with which you can get to the top; otherwise the return is in rappel along the climbing route. All the belays are well-equipped with bolt and chains.

Starting from Pirlo allo Spino hut (1160 meters), you walk for 40 minutes on the route (itinerary 3.18.1) reaching the base of the face where there is written the name of the route. You clip under a big roof, go in oblique on the left reaching the high end on the left (S1, 40 meters, IV+). Follow the face, go in oblique on the right at the beginning of some slabs (S2, 30 meters, V+). Bends to the left briefly to trace the margin of a slab, exceed a small dihedral and continue then on the slab (S3, 40 meters, V+). Again on slabs you go in oblique on the right reaching the “Gnaccarini-Bosio” route where there is its route book (S4, 30 meters, VI+).  

 

 

Length: 280 meters

Level: V-

This route, which is marked with red points, has been dedicated to Sesto Gnaccarini, Director of the CAI climbing school of Bozzolo and to Egidio Bosio, ex President of CAI Association Salò. The climb follows a very logic route, along a dihedral-slab, where the last pitches are troubled by the vegetation; this is why it is preferable to climb up to the fifth pitch and then turn down in rappel. At half face you will find the route book, where arrives, from the right, “la Befana” route.

Starting from Rifugio Pirlo allo Spino (1160 m) you walk for 40 minutes on the trail (itinerary 3.18.1) reaching the base of the face. The route starts by an inclined dihedral (red points) pointing to a tree that you can around on the right using some bolts for the security (30 meters, III+ and V).  You go on a slab through a crack and then you reach an overhang (20 meters, IV+). You climb the overhang directly (V-) and you continue (IV+) on a slab (25 meters). Again on the slab, now it is easier, you reach a niche where there is the route book (25 meters, III). You go on for other two easy pitches just troubled by the vegetation up to a little overhang (35 meters and 25 meters, II). When you have passed the overhang, go on to a small dihedral (30 meters, III). For the last two pitches of 25 meters on the slab, you come out where there is the summit cross (III).

 

ROGERWAY ROUTE

First climbers: Alberto Tonolini and Roberto Amadori in March 1998.

Length: 250 meters + return

Material: 2 ropes 50 meters; 10 double connectors Friend 2-3

Level: VI and A0

This is one of the most attended and appreciated routes of the south face of the Marmere. Each belay is very good equipped with bolt and chain.

The start (the name of the route is written on the stone) is on the left of the lowest part of the face, before the climb to Buco del Gatto. You climb for a small pitch on a dihedral base that you have to pass (S1, 25 meters, V-, IV). You go in oblique on the left (III) and then on the right, climbing then a slab and reaching some trees (S2, 50 meters, III, IV). You climb diagonally on the left some slabs, you pass over an overhang and then a slab beyond which you arrive under a roof  reaching, on the right, its higher end (S3, 50 meters, V, VI+). You go in oblique on the right, pass directly a roof and a slab (VI) reaching (V) some trees (S4, 50 meters, 2 pitons). You reach on the left a slab base and you climb it on the right go straightly to some trees; you turn on the left and you do a pendulum in the same direction, starting then again to climb directly to some slabs (S5, 50 meters, V, VI, A0). You climb reaching a roof on the right where arrives also the “Profumo d’Oriente” route (S6, 30 meters, VI, V) and you arrive on the ridge where, on the right, you reach the summit.

 

First climbers: Alberto Tonioli solo, in November 1996

Material: 2 ropes 50 meters; 8 double connectors

Level: from IV up to VI+

The route, that winds on compact slabs to cross in friction climbing, joins to “Profumo d’Oriente” route at the last pitch; it is one of the most attended and appreciated climbings of the south face of the Marmere. The belays are very good equipped with bolt and chains.

The start of the route is indicated through a flag and through the name written on the base. The first pitch goes in oblique slightly on the left and then climbs directly to the first belay (S1, 45 meters, V, IV). The next three pitches pass smearing a beautiful and long slab (S2, 45 meters, V, VI+; S3, 40 meters, IV+, 2 pitons; S4, 40 meters, IV, V, 2 pitons). You reach the base of a chimney that you have to re-climb going out on the right (S5, 40 meters, IV, VI, 2 pitons). If you go in oblique on the right (V) you reach “Profumo d’Oriente” route with which you arrive to the summit. 

 

First climbers: Renato Cobelli and Silvio Pedretti in 1977

Length: about 150 meters

Material: 12 pitons still there, belays included.

Climbing time: 6 hours

Historical route on which an equipped path was projected, but then the idea was abandoned even if you can find rusted metal cables. The route, which is no more attended, rises straight from the point where you see a pending metal cable and crosses both “La diagonale dei Sogni” and on the upper side, “Rogerway”, arriving to the summit.

 

PROFUMO D’ORIENTE ROUTE

First climbers: Tiberio Quecchia solo on 9^th February 1998 during several climbing days (in two days with Roberto Amadori).

Length: 240 meters on 6 pitches (equipped belays with fix and chains) + 150 meters of crest

Level: VII- obligatory and A1

Climbing time: 3.30/4 hours

It has been defined the most beautiful route of Garda mountains. Some sequences have been passed thanks to small cliff-hangers. With www.tib.it is the most challenging route on this face and passes several walls which down in oblique from the left to the right of the face.

The name of the route is written on the start. You climb directly (VI-, VI+), then you pass a wall (S1, 55 meters, VII-). You arrive at the base of the next wall (VI+) and you go along it on the base on the left for some meters; you pass it (V/VI) and you go in oblique on the left (S2, 55 meters). You climb some meters directly (VI+) and you move on the right at the overhang base that you can pass with some cliff (S3, 30 meters, A1). You climb on the left of another roof that has to be passed on the upper left side  (V+), moving then on the right (S4, 45 meters), you climb in oblique on the left through a grove and another roof (S5, 60 meters, from V+ up to VI). Through small rocks (I, II) you reach the west crest and then the summit.

 

MARIOLINO ROUTE

First climbers:  Giuseppe and Giuliano Leonardi  in June 1991.

Length : 220 meters

Level: V+

It is also known by the name of “Via dei Cremonesi”. You start on the left side of the wall at a vertical slab (piton). You climb then for a dihedral of about 120 meters after that you cross on the right on an overhanging barrier reaching the west crest; then you go on up to the summit.

 

BIG FOOT ROUTE

First climbers: Alberto Damioli solo on 8^th February 1997

Length: 65 meters

Level: max. VI+

Whole protected, it is situated on the left of Mariolino Route, more or less where the south wall arrives down, where there is a flag impressed. You climb on a groove (IV), then you go straightly (V) and you move then on the right through an easy route (S1, III). You cross on the left for some meters and then you climb directly moving at the end on the left (S2, VI+). Going in oblique on the right (V) you reach again Mariolino route, more or less on 1/3 of the route. Following this route you reach the west crest and then the summit.

 

WWW .TIB. IT ROUTE

First climbers: Tiberio Quecchia solo in 6 days, ended on 26^th December 1998

Length: 65 meters

Level: max. VII-

The climb is very sensitive and, in the last pitch, athletic; it is, together with “Profumo d’Oriente”, the most challenging on this wall. The belays are completely equipped.

The start is just on the left of “Big Foot” route. You climb on a very small grassy ledge and then you re-climb, at the beginning some slabs directly, and then on the left of these, you have to enter in a dihedral which has to be climbed on the bottom (S1, 35 meters, V-, VI-, IV). You go on into the dihedral and then go out at the roof base which has to be passed after a short traverse on the right; you continue on slabs on the left up to the base of another big roof (S2, 35 meters, V+, V). you stay on the left of this in order to climb then directly on the slab; on the right of this slab you pass a shoulder and you reach the base of a roof; you pass it and another roof and you reach the last belay (S5, 50 meters, Vm VI+, VII-, 2 pitons). Through woods and easy rocks you reach the west crest and then the summit.

 

PODAVINI-FUCINA ROUTE

First climbers: Dario Podavini and Pietro Fucina on 1^st November 1965

Length: 120 meters

Level: 1.45 hours

Material: 12 pitons still there, belays included

Climbing time: 6 hours

It is the first opened route on the south wall of the Marmere and goes through a series of inclined slabs near the dihedral which crosses the wall, coming out on the west crest near the summit. No other information available.

 

Forametto Mount (1332 meters) is located to south of Marmere. It is a crest composed of several elevations and presents, on the east side, a beautiful rock face which is possible to climb almost all year even if the exposure is not so favorable as the Marmere face.

 

Access:

Starting from the Pirlo allo Spino hut (1160 meters) you take the trail that with some ups and down goes through the south-west Monte Spino side, passes the gully which descents from Buco del Gatto and continues along the south side of Marmere. Reaching a rounded top, you move leaving the trail which goes on to Collio Valle Sabbia. You go along the bases of the slabs of the south face of Marmere  (about 1160 meters) and climbing then a  gully you reach the Passo del Buco del Tedesco (1231 m- 1 hour).

 

First climbers: Alberto Tonioli solo in April 1997

Material: 1 rope 50 meters; friend 1 or 2 (not needful)

Level: from III up to VI+

The route rises on the right side of the big dihedral which furrows the entire south east face and after raining, it remains wet for a long time.

Starting form Pirlo hut (1160 meters) you follow the itinerary 3.18.1 up to the trail coming from Collio Valle Sabbia. You take this last one just for a small part and then you leave it (ometto) in order to divert on the right reaching the base of the face (0,40 hour) which is on the right of a big dihedral and on the left of some trees. You climb directly a small dihedral and you move then on the left, you pass a slab and you climb another small dihedral; you go oblique on the left to an hotel and then you climb directly belaying on a spike (S1, 50 meters, VI+, 3 pitons, 1 friend, 1 bolt). You move on the right for some meters, you climb some slabs and you pass a roof (S2, 40 meters, IV, VI+, 2 pitons, 2 bolts). It is easier to climb passing then a slab (S3, 30 meters, V, III, 2 pitons, 2 bolts). You move on the right under a roof that has then to be passed for reaching a slab, you arrive to a overhang  where you have to move on the left to the highest side of the big dihedral which crosses the face (S4, 30 meters, VI+, V+, 5 pitons, 3 bolts). Through an easy trail you reach a crest and you go on (S5, 30 meters, IV-, III, 2 pitons). You follow the small crest which is always less steep (S6, 25 meters, IV-, III, 1 piton). After a spike you climb a steep slab (IV-) beyond which you continue (II) almost flat (S7, 30 meters, 3 pitons). Then you go on an easy crest up to the summit.

 

First climbers: Tiberio Quecchia solo in July 1998.

Level: VI+ free-climb and A1

Material: for the aid climbing 2 small cliff-hangers and 2 aiders.

The start is on the left of “L’aurora del diedro” route.

You climb on the right over a slab (V) and you arrive to a dihedral which has to be climbed in the middle (VI, move A1) and then you go out on its left to a tree (S1, 45 meters).  You pass a wall and you climb again directly; you cross on the left (IV) in order to pass a roof, climb again in a groove (V) and pass another small roof (S3, 45 meters, V/V+). You climb directly the slab up to its end (S5, 20 meters, IV+). On an easy trail you climb on the east crest (S6, 50 meters, III) that has to be followed up to the summit.

Descent: the route is equipped for rappels or you go down along the crest Buco del Tedesco.

 

Length: 230 meters with 5 pitches and equipped belays

Level: max. VI

Climbing time: 3-3,40 hours

Along the route, on smearing, clean and hard rock, you can see some pitons for the belays with chains.

On the left of the slab of 30 Luglio route, you can find the start.

You climb the wall directly to a niche (S1, 40 meters, IV, V+). You climb on the left of the dihedral (V) that reaches to some grooves that lead to a roof (IV-) that has to be passed and crossed on the right (S2, 40 meters). You go in oblique on the right………of a roof (IV+) that has to be passed (VI-) continuing on the face up to a grassy ledge; you have then to climb another wall (V); going in oblique  on the right you take two grooves that  will be climbed up to their end (S3, 45 meters, IV+). You pass the slab climbing some meters directly (V) up to the base of a roof crossed by a gully. You pass the roof on the left of the gully that has then to be crossed (IV) moving on the right  and going in oblique on the left passing other two small faces (S4, 50 meters, V, IV). Crossing on the left you reach the base of a marked roof, you pass it, you climb on the right on slab (IV) reaching a tree where you have to move on the left (V) in order then to climb the last face  (V+) and reach the east crest (S5, 50 meters, IV); following the crest you reach then the summit.

Descent: in rappel or you go down along the west crest reaching the Buco del Tedesco.

 

The hut is a good rest point even if the descent is still a long.

Then, if you climb along the trail 9 bis, it is better to enter directly without making it longer.

At San Michele you will find Restaurant/Hotel San Michele “Dai Rosei” with a great lake view and good food. Tel. +39 0365 20575.

www.hoteldairosei.it

Useful is the overnight stay by the hut

www.rifugiopirlo.com

Infos about the hut: Ms. Renza Calliari – tel. +39 0365 651177