DELLE BUSE SUMMIT – MONTE BALDO

ACCESS
You can reach the Telegrafo hut  from San Zeno di Montagna (VR) through a panomaric trail , which climbs not so far away from the chairlift.
By the hut, during the days particularly clear, it is possible to see the Venice lagoon.

INFOs
DELLE BUSE summit

A.Molinaroli route
Position: north face of Delle Buse summit (2156 meters) of Del Pre valley inside Circo del Telegrafo.
First climbers: Franco Coltri and Beppe Vidali in 1989
Length: about 170 meters
Level: IV+ sustained
Climbing time: 1.30 hours from the attack
For the walk-in follow the trail which starts from Telegrafo hut  to the Passo del Camino and to Col Santo. When you reach the couloir’s entrance which goes to the equipped path called “Delle Taccole”, descent through trails staying always close to left face. Lowering of height, pass two big stones which are in the middle of the couloir and go straight on the left to an evident buttress; reached its base, climb for some meters to the clod of grass up to the attack of the route which is marked with a red point.

First pitch: climb for some meters (red piton) pointing to a small overhang (bolt). Pass it and reach a crack on the slab (some pitons). Follow the crack up to a small dihedral (several pitons). Pass it in layback, staying always on the left of the dihedral, climb then vertically up to a belay terrace (stainless steel slings).

Second pitch: it follows vertically the evident slab staying some meters on the right of the big dihedral, up to the belay on slings and bolts (3 pitons and a tunnel). When you arrive by the big ledge which is parallel to the face, go to a chimney (ring bolt) and climb it layback up to the belay.

Third pitch: go up vertically over the belay reaching a niche (piton), climb in oblique on the left in layback (piton) and then still a little bit on the left up to a small ledge (piton) pointing now to a red piton; once you have passed the final slab you will be on a large grassy ledge where the route finishes. Belay on stainless steel cables under small rocks.
Come back rising the grassy steps up to the meadows above (stone cairn), climbing then to the Delle Buse summit; here you will find the trail to the hut.

Turri route
Position: north face of Delle Buse summit (2156 meters) of Del Pre valley inside Circo del Telegrafo.
First climbers: Franco Coltri and Beppe Vidali in 1989
Length: about 170 meters
Level: VI sustained with obligatory sequences VI+
Climbing time: 2.30 hours from the attack.
For the walk-in follow the indications related to Molinaroli route

First pitch: the attack is 10 meters on the left, under a roof. Climb the slab vertically up almost under the roof that you can avoid using a crack which brings you up to the end of the roof. Pass it going one meter on the left (several pitches). On flake holds climb vertically up to one bolt (key step). Go slightly in oblique on the right and using the few flake holds available, rise again on the vertical of the bolts reaching the belay which is in common with the Molinaroli route.

 Second pitch: it rises vertically on the big overhanging buttress, following a crack (several bolts) up to a small ledge which runs horizontally the buttress (ring bolt). Traverse it on the right for some meters and, bypassed the edge on a small terrace, you can belay (stainless steel cables). Pass the ledge up to its end and then climb vertically the north edge of the buttress (bolt). Leave the edge and climb the slab vertically up to a mugo pine). Belay on grassy ledge (stainless steel cables).

Third pitch: from the belay go on to a bolt with a sling and climb vertically staying on the right of the chimney; rise it for some meters passing then on the left under a small roof (bolt). Climb vertically for some meters following the bolts (few holds). Going then in oblique on the left get out of  the overhanging cliff up to the left edge. Here an evident dihedral crack comes to the ledge at the exit of the face where you can belay on stainless steel slings and rocks.

FUN & PLEASURE
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