PARETE IRIDE - Riva del Garda (TN) 

IRIDE FACE

ACCESS
The attack is at few kilometers after Riva del Garda, direction Limone, at the end of the new and long tunnel. Some years ago, the east face of Capi summit seemed majestic, but now, the structure that protects from the stones doesn’t permit the view. Park your car on the left (if you arrive from Riva) and walk along the old Gardesana way (even if there is a prohibition of pedestrian walkway…). By the entrance of the tunnel on the right, closed by a gate, there is a red inscription; that is the point where you have to descent.

INFOs
This is a face overlooking the lake, completely isolated (only rock and lake), where the climbing is of rare beauty and uniqueness. This rocky band forms a cliff with its own configuration and dimension, dedicated to Iride, a girl that is no more with us.

Calanques route
First climbers: Giuliano Stenghel (Sten) and Alessandro Baldessarini (Baldix) on 10th October 1979
Length: 120 meters
Level: V and VI
This is a very interesting route, on rock which is in some points a little bit crumbling. You descent, climbing or in rappel from the old highway.
At water’s level, passing over some boulders on the water, you reach a flake (if the water is high you have to get wet your feet). Using these reefs you are able to traverse and to climb a small terrace.
Go on climbing in oblique on the right, and then traverse up to a bulge (1 piton) reaching two iron-girders which come out of the rock. From a piton you have to go down with the rope and continuing in the traverse, reach a dihedral that you have to cross completely up to the belay.
Descent again on the right and climb then on a small terrace at the base of an overhanging and crumbling crack which has to be passed. Through a narrow ramp, after a small traverse on the right (2 meters) go on a dihedral of grey rocks up to the end of the difficulties. The descent is through a grassy ramp and with trees up to the escape tunnel which brings you, always inside the tunnel, near the attack of our route and near the small parking. This route needs the rope (better in rappel because the pitches are short). It is useful to make a lot of belays during the climbing (always equipped).

Stenghel-Vettori variant
First climbers: Giuliano Stenghel and others
Level: EEA
Before the last dihedral you can continue for 10 meters on the traverse and then rappel and space walk up to a cornice which has to be passed on the right  up to the chimney diedre for the exit.
Linea Poetica route – dedicated to Carla Maria Valduga.
First climbers: Giuliano Stenghel, Fabio Sartori and Delio Zenatti on 15th June 1982
Length: 120 meters
Level: VI and a sequence using 2 pitons
Where the Calanques route begins on the cliff, continue near the water with a very technical climb on small holds. By the dihedral base of the Calanques route, pass the edge and go on up to a cave  from which you can exit on the right with a very difficult sequence. You are always by the water with the help of some pitons and then you climb passing a difficult overhang with underholds. From a small terrace (about 4/5 meters above the water) continue up to a small vertical face with a lot of holds which brings you to a cornice that has to be covered on the right up to the base of a chimney diedre which brings you to a grassy ramp (Stenghel-Vettori variant to the Calanques route). From an escape tunnel you reach the Gardesana way, about 100 meters far from the attack.
“La Linea Poetica” is a very beautiful route which can be done in free climbing (only if you are able to swim or with a life jacket). The last 30 meters rise on the cliff for 6/7 meters, but with easy climbing. The rock is quite good with some technical sequences and sometimes on poor holds. This is therefore a beginners route, very funny and with continual difficulties, but, above all, in a wonderful environment. 

H2O variant
First climbers:  Giuliano Stenghel
Length: 25 meters
Level: difficult
After the difficult sequence of the cave (Linea Poetica route) climb directly through a crack corner and crumbling rock up to the Calanques route.
To the south there are two routes on the SCOGLIERE DEL VENTO (wind-cliffs)

Graziano Dalbosco route
First climbers: Giuliano Stenghel and Renzo Vittori, in alternation
Length: 200 meters
Level: V+ and VI+
Material: 5 pitons left there
This is a very difficult and delicate climb due to the rock that, in some points, is quite crumbling. Nevertheless the lake view, especially during a sunny spring day, rewards the nature of these rocks and makes the climbing exciting.
From the escape tunnel of the long tunnel on the Gardesana highway (near the Ponale Hotel – direction Riva del Garda), climb for 40 meters on eroded rock reaching a cornice with tree. Cross for 25 meters on delicate rock (2 pitons). Go on up to the base of a grey rock’s dihedral passing some overhangs. Go through the dihedral up to the base of yellow and crumbling bulge. Continue on the right for some meters on delicate rocks up to a ledge, under a niche. Go out on the right up to the summit, which is the old way to the Ledro valley (now closed).

Emanuela route
First climbers: Giuliano Stenghel and Fabio Sartori
Length: 200 meters
Level: V
From one of the outlet tunnels of the Gardesana long tunnel, (the twelfth – before the new long tunnel – after Ponale Hotel – direction Riva del Garda) climb on easy rocks to a yellow dihedral which furrows the cliff completely up to the old way to the Ledro valley (not used anymore). Leave the dihedral after some pitches, passing on the left, using a rope. Through a ramp reach the wall of the street.

FUN & PLEASURE
We are eating and drinking for you…

From CAMERINI F., STENGHEL G., Il Garda Verticale, ed. Zeta-Beta 2002.