SCIVOLO DELLE MAROCCHE - Comune di Nago - Torbole (Tn)

of Fabio Montorsi
Material taken from the web-site http://www.caicastelfranco.com

The “Scivolo delle Marocche”, which is not so far away from Torbole by the slopes of the “Altissimo di Nago”, is a funny practice ground for rock climbing composed of solid slabs of grey limestone.
This is a very easy climb with a very good nailing through fix, the short walk-in; this is why a visit can be suggested, in particular to people who are beginning to climb and would like to put into practice the friction climbing. And then the wonderful view to the Garda lake and to the mountains around it.
We just propose 3 of the 4 itineraries which are present in this area. In fact, according to us, the fourth called “Vent da Mont” is not so worthy and it runs on rocks which are quite dirty.
The routes have been climbed and very good equipped by Eugenio Cipriani.
Approaching
From the A22 motorway, exit Rovereto Sud, follow direction Garda Lake. When you have reached Torbole, go to the centre of the village and then turn on the left, direction “Parco delle Busatte”. Follow the narrow street up to a bend where you can already see the slabs of the practice ground (there is the possibility to park your car on the left by the bend).
Continue a little bit on the asphalt road up to the trail called “Sentiero dei Paloni” on the right. Follow it and when you are out of the wood and in the area called “Zona delle Marocche” – big stones’ landslide – take the trail on the left which brings you direction north; after few meters leave it and turn on the right along a trail in the wood, with orange and blue marks (not so visible), that lead you to the base of the face.

DELL’ORA ROUTE
Difference in height: 200 meters 250 meters of length 6 pitches
Level: AD – II and III a stretch of IV+ - avoidable
Exposure: south
Climbing time: 1.30 – 2.00 hours
Period: all the year long
Equipment: standard alpinism equipment. Rope of 50 meters. On the route there are belay-pitons and quick draws.
Access: Dell’Ora route is the first one that you find running the base of the face from the right to the left, uphill side.
Climbing
Climb the beautiful slab on dark rock, which is hold and wrought, up to the equipped belay with two fix, situated slightly on the left, S1, 45 meters, II and III.
Continue vertically on black and more compact rock, III+ reaching and then following a groove that, on the left, brings you to the belay in common with Peter route, S2, 45 meters, II+ and III+.
Pass the easy and small couloir and then run directly through slab and with funny climbing you can reach the belay which is situated under a grassy ledge and a group of small trees, equipped with fix. S3, 45 meters, II and III-.
Continue on easy slab now, but with a lot of unsafe flakes and looking at the “palone” above, move yourself on the left in order to pass a short wood - small tree with red mark - up to a fix with red point, S5, 50 meters, II+.
Now you can reach the trail to coming back quite quickly, climbing among the shrubs, or you can climb on the right passing directly the support wall of the “palone”, 1 fix, sequence of IV- beyond which you can anyway reach the descent trail, S6, 20 meters, easy or a step of IV-.
Descent
When you have reached the trail follow it on the left descending, by a junction stay on the left and in 25 minutes, more or less, you will arrive on the narrow route of the “Parco delle Busatte”, from which again to the attack point of the routes.

PELER ROUTE
Difference in height: 200 meters 250 meters of length 6 pitches
Level: AD – II – III short sequences of III+ a stretch of IV- avoidable
Exposure: south
Climbing time: 1.30 – 2.00 hours
Period: all the year long
Equipment: standard alpinism equipment. On the route there are belay-pitons and quick draws.
Access: the Peter route is the second one that you find running the base of the face from the right to the left, uphill side.
Climbing
Climb the beautiful slab which is hold and wrought up to the belay, S1, 45 meters, II and III.
Continue vertically passing the compact slab, up to the belay, S2, 45 meters, III and III+.
Pass the big step which hangs over the belay and continue then through slab and with a funny diagonal climbing to the left you reach the belay-fix which is situated under a grassy ledge, S3, 45 meters, III.
Pass the ledge and go on easy slab, but with a lot of unsafe flakes, looking at the “palone” above; reached a wood – small tree with red mark – pass it up to a fix with red point, S5, 50 meters, II.
Now you can reach the trail to coming back quite quickly, climbing among the shrubs, or you can climb on the right passing directly the support wall of the “palone”, 1 fix, sequence of IV- beyond which you can anyway reach the descent trail, S6, 20 meters, easy or a step of IV-.
Descent
When you have reached the trail follow it on the left descending, by a junction stay on the left and in 25 minutes, more or less, you will arrive on the narrow route of the “Parco delle Busatte”, from which again to the attack point of the routes.

VENTO DI PONALE ROUTE
Difference in height: 220 meters 250 meters of length 5 pitches
Level: AD III – III+ sequences of IV-
Exposure: south
Climbing time: 2.00 hours
Period: all the year long
Equipment: standard alpinism equipment. On the route there are belay-pitons and quick draws.
Access: taken the trail with orange marks, follow it inside the wood; after that take a second trail on the left that follows you to the routes of the left sector of the face.
Climbing
Attack the beautiful slab of good rock and continue up to an area mixed with grass that you can anyway pass without any problem, S1, 50 meters, III and III+.
Continue with a more difficult climb through wonderful slab and following all the pitons you will reach the next belay, S2, 50 meters, III+ and IV-.
Go on vertically with interesting sequences up to the belay which is on a large grassy ledge, S3, 30 meters, III.
From the ledge pass the next slab vertically up to a fix which is under a rock-step, now straight on passing the small overhang and the next short slab, beyond which you have to continue through flake’s rock, but easier, taking the direction of the truss; belay just a little bit beyond a small wood, piton and red point, S4, 50 meters, III+ II.
Now you can reach the trail to coming back quite quickly, climbing among the shrubs, or you can climb on the right passing directly the support wall of the “palone”, 1 fix, sequence of IV- beyond which you can anyway reach the descent trail, S6, 20 meters, easy or a step of IV-.
Descent
When you have reached the trail follow it on the left descending, by a junction stay on the left and in 25 minutes, more or less, you will arrive on the narrow route of the “Parco delle Busatte”, from which again to the attack point of the routes.

FUN & PLEASURE
We are testing… for your health.

References:
http://caicastelfranco.com